Creating Asian style "flare" is easy on poodles, as long as you have enough hair for contrast.
Start off with a great bath, using a product that gets them clean and doesn't weigh down hair. Scissors used in Video are: Yento Cobra curves(for smaller dogs i recomend the more curved Aesculap-they are exactly like the utsumi super curved). A curved Chunker .
For this groom I used K9 Crisp shampoo & Crisp Mist spray. If i wanted more plush Volume i would use Hydra Volume shampoo & Volume Mask(but cypher is soft and i was worried it would be too soft), or K9 Competitions new High Rise sh & Cond volumizing line. If they are insanely thick use something light and with slip(K9 competiton followed by k9 dematter or Hydra demat & finish spray) Most companies have versions of volumizing products which plump up or coat the hair shaft to make it apear thicker. Hydra uses B vitamins and Hydrolized keratin to fill in chipped strands for healthier hair. A great HV and Fluff dry are key to getting a good finish.
To get the contrast take the body short, starting at withers, use anything from a #7 blade to a 1/2" guard comb(skinny dogs look better with longer, fat dogs with shorter. Leave some hair at the tuck and pin bones to fill in. (i used a AGS 1/2" guard over a #30 blade).
Next is the front Legs: Trim in your feet first by using curved shears and placing your first cut in front of nails(the more hair the bigger the foot can be), follow the shape around to the back, keeping your shear at an angle that cuts the hair closest to the table shorter than the hair above. To create flared legs you can use either a guard comb or a skip tooth blade and SKIM(lightly hover clipper)to set in your shape. You will need a steady hand and a good dog for this technique. I prefer to set my shape of legs while standing so as to not accidentally cut too much off the lower leg. fluff the hair and scissor. (see video)
Tip: the less hair on the lower legs that you have, the shorter the upper armpit area needs to be to still have contrast. The goal is to have gradual length changes so that it does not look like boots. Take care to not remove too much from front of upper leg and cause a bowed look.
Next is Rear Legs & Tail: rear legs can be hard when you cant have too much hair on the lower half. You can set in a "schnauzer line" on the rear leg but blend the transistion. This works great on thick /muscular thigh dogs. Leaving all the hock hair, and taking the area from pin bone to bend line short will give the leg some shape.
Trim tail with chunkers and scissors(see video). The general shape of tail is like a upside down flared leg, with the base being shorter than the end, but with no sudden lines or transistions, and a slight rounded end. Be careful to not fal into old habits and clip too close to base of tail, some dogs have a dip there that needs to be filled.
Head: For best asian shape, dont use clippers. instead scissor the shape in. start by setting in your defineing features.(chin/eyes/top head) Chin should be about an inch so that there is enough to blend into round muzzle. Do not scoop out eyes, the goal should be layered ears, and blended round head. Too much length will cause "flopknot"
when you look at front of dog try to see the shapes you are aiming for: the oval muzzle, the round head, and cut the hair that sticks outside that line.
A groom that still looks good even after camping!